Qirmizi was once known as the Jerusalem of the Caucasus, but the once bustling community now lives on memories and longing for people and times gone by.
In a small cafe in Qirmizi, Azerbaijan, a few elderly mountain Jews chat over a strong tea with sugar cubes. They speak Juhuro, the forsaken tongue of Caucasus Jews. It’s a kind of Persian mixed with Hebrew.
One of them, an elderly man with a big white mustache and a black cap, proudly shows off his arm, decorated with a flower tattoo. “I had it done when I was 20 years old. So that when I’m old, I’ll remember my youthful days,” he said.